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Filling
(weft or woof) in weaving, the crosswise yarn(s) that interlace at right angles with the lengthwise warp.
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Shuttle
- Device on a loom to carry the filling yarn through the shed to interlace it with the warp
- (shed shoots through the shuttle)
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Grain
The alignment of vertical and horizontal elements in a fabric to form a right-angle relationship
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Leno
Open weave used for casements, which achieves extra stability by twisting the warp yarns around each other and inserting the filling yarn.
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Pile
Pile weave: construction in which cut or uncut loops protrude from the ground cloth.
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Rib
Raid ridge running lengthwise, crosswise, or diagonally on fabric
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Alpaca
Long, fine, natural protein hair fiber obtained from the domesticated south American Alpaca
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Spandex
Synthetic elastic fibers composed of segmented polyurethane
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Linen
- Natural cellulose yarn made from flax fibers
- Noted for strength, cool hand, and luster; low resilience
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Slub
Lump or knot in a yarn: may be a defect or pruposely spun to produce a textured surface in a cloth
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Base
Part of novelty yarns
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Spindle
Twisting the yarns
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Merino
- Breed of sheep yielding a high grade wool used for fine woolen and worsted cloth.
- Very soft
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Flocked
Fabric in which the entire surface is covered with flocking to produce a velvet-like / suade-like texture
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Spinnerette
Metal disc with numerous fine holes which a chamical solution is extruded to produce synthetic fibers
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Polyester
Manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming substance is a long-chain syntehtic polymer composed on a complex ester.
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Gimp
- Silk / metallic yarn spiral-wrapped closely around an inner core to cover it completely.
- Has different sized loops twisted back on it.
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Staple
Natural or manufactured fiber that has a relatively short length
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Felt
Non-woven fabric made of fibers joined through the application of heat, agitation, and moisture, or by mechanical treatment.
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Synthetic
- Textile fiber made from a petrochemical rather than a natural base
- (Polyester, nylon, olefin, etc)
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Balanced
Warp and weft and 1:1
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Pick
In weaving (loom), a single passage of filling yarn through the warp shed.
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Mineral
Natural or manufactured fiber derived from a mineral, such as asbestor or fiberglass
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Cloth
- Any pliable material whether woven, knitted, felted, knotted, or extruded
- Ex. thread count
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Carding
Process used for all natural fibers, in which they are seperated and brought into general alignment prior to pricing.
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Mohair
Processed fiber of the long, silky hair of the Angora goat.
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Tow
- Short or broken fiber of flax, hemp, or synthetic materials used for yarn, twine, or stuffing.
- Roping
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Knot
Weaving flas; broken yarns which are tied, and usually pulled through to the back of the fabric
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Triacetate
Manufactured fiber that is a modification of acetate with a higher ratio of acetate to cellulose.
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Harness
Rectangular frame on a loom that holds the heddles (wires) through which the warp yarns pass.
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Sericulture
Raising of silkworms and production of silk
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Ramie
- Fine, oriental bast fiber.
- Cellulose fiber.
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Trevira
Brand name for Polyester
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Pilling
As a fiber breaks up, the two free ends tend to roll back in the opposite directions, forming a fuzzy ball on the fabric surface
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Viscose
- Most common rayon formed by converting cellulose into a soluble form and regenerating it into a fiber
- Solution of Rayon.
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Cord
A fabric with a pronounced horizontal or vertical rib
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Novelty Yarns
Yarns constructed in such a way as to produce a bulky or uneven or otherwise special appearance.
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Jacquard
- Attachment that uses a punched card system to raise and lower single heddles (wires).
- Produces complex patterns such as tapestry and brocade.
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Twist
- The tightness and direction of the twist spun into a yarn.
- S-twist: clockwise twist, most common
- Z-twist: counter-clockwise twist
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Chenille
A fuzzy caterpillar-like yarn of cotton or manufactured fibers.
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Woof
Threads that run crosswise in a woven fabric, at right angles to the warp threads.
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Bouclé
3 ply yarn with tight loops projecting from strand at regular intervals similar to loop and curl yarns.
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Polymer
Chamical compound consisting of repeating monomers joined end to end to form a polymer chain
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Binder
Holds base and effect yarns together
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Lappet
- 3-element woven fabric simlar to discontinuousbrocade.
- Tiny little repeated patterns.
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Sisal
Strong natural cellulose fiber used in making cord and matting
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Dye Affinity
- The susceptibility of a fiber to various dye-stuffs.
- How a fiber accepts a dye.
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Roving
Bundle of fiber that are carded and combed and arranged in parallel alignment before spinning
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Acetate
- A manufactured fiber composed of acetylated cellulose.
- Cellulose fiber.
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Cellulose
- Organic fibrous substance found in all vegetation that is the basic constituent of both natural and manufactured fibers.
- Ex. cotton, linen, jute, rayon.
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Twill
Basic weave taht produces a surface of diagonal lines by passing filling threads over 2 or more ends in a regular progression.
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Modacrylic
A modified acrylic fiber composed of copolymers of acrylonitrile and other materials such as vinyl chloride, which enable the fiber to be softened at low temperatures.
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Unbalanced
Warp and weft in yarns are uneven.
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Plain
Simplest method of interlacing warp and weft yarns to make cloth
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Acrylic
Fiber composed of acrylontrile units which are derived from petrochemical by-products
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Filament
Fiber of indefinite length, either natural (silk) or manufactured
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Glass
Raw material from which fiberglass fibers are made
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Retting
- The rotting of flax.
- Soaking the bast fiber plants to permit bacterial or chemical breakdown of the other bark that loosens the fibers.
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Angora
Goat native to Turkey from which the natural protein fiber, mohair, is obtained; a wool variant.
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Effect
- Yarn that controls design or appearance, decorative.
- (Novelty or complex yarn)
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Ply
A single strand of yarn
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Polypropylene
Olefin fiber made of propylene
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Nub
- Random clot of short, dense fibers incorporated durig spinning.
- Novelty yarn.
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Reed
Comb-like device on a loom through which the warp ends pass
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Satin
- Warp-faced fabric in a satin weave.
- Basic weave in which the fabric face is composed almost entirely of warm or filling floats, producing a smooth, lustrous surface.
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Flax
Plant from which linen is produced
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Selvage
Reinforced edge on either side of a woven or flat knitted cloth, finished to prevent raveling.
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Ratiné
A novelty yarn constructed by twisting a heavy yarn around a fine yarn
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Silk
Natural protein fiber unwound from the cocoon of the silkworm
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Warp
Lengthwise yarns in a woven fabric, running vertically through the loom parallel to the selvages
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Worsted
Smooth, compact yarns spun from carded and combed long wool fibers. Worsted fibers are more closely constructed and have smoother finishes than woolens.
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Dobby
A mechanical loom attachment that can regulate as many as 40 harnesses to produce small, geometric patterns
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Olefin
Synthetic fibers produced from either polyethylene or polypropylene.
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Horse Hair
Narrow ulholstery fabric woven with a filling of long, single tail hairs.
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Metallic
Any fiber, yarn, or fabric using a metal (gold, aluminum, steel, etc) as part of its structure
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Weave
Structural pattern in which yarns are interlaced to produce fabric
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Beater
Movable frame on a loom that holds the read and packs the filling yarns into place
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Loom
Machine that produces woven textiles by interlacing warp and filling yarns at right angles to each other
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Weft
Horizontal or crosswise element in a woven cloth
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Combing
The process of making carded fibers parallel and removing simpurities and short fibers before spinning
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Wool
Fuzzy, loosely twisted yarn spun from carded short wool fibers
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Basket
Balanced plain weave in which two or more warp yarns interlace with two or more filling yarns.
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Jute
Course, natural, cellulose fiber used primarily in burlap and carpet backing
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Yarn
Any form of spun, twisted or extruded fibers, natural or manufactured, that can be used in weaving, knitting, or knotting
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Mercerization
Caustic soda treatment for cloth and linen, which makes the yarn or cloth stronger, and increases luster and dye affinity
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Nylon
Synthetic polyamide fiber
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Shed
- The space formed as the harnesses of a loom raise some warp yarns and lower other, through which the shuttle passes to lay in the filling.
- Shed shoots through the shuttle.
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Degumming
Removal of natural gums from silk yarn or fabric by boiling in a mild alkaline solution.
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