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O Lecture 10/13/10
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Beach
the entire active area of the coast that experiences changes due to breaking waves
Drivers
slope
Where does wave energy converge?
on headlands
where does wave energy diverge?
away from adjoining bays
Parallel movement
as waves approach shore, they bend so crests are nearly parallel to shore
different segments of wave crests move at different speeds
Zig zag motion
long shore current
long shore current
zig zag motion
How much can the long shore current speed up to?
4 km/hr
What does the long shore current speed up with?
beach slope
wave height
wave frequency
How fast are rip currents
5 mph
How big are rip currents
15-150 ft wide
What are some features of a depositional coast?
Delta, Spit, Tombolo, Barrier island
What are the features of a barrier island?
beach
dune
barrier flat
salt marsh
lagoon
barrier flat
formed from sand driven through openings during storm
Low marsh
extends from ~mean sea level to the high neap-tide line
high marsh
extends to highest spring-tide line
what si the most biologically productivd
low marsh
land building vegitation
What 3 external forcing functions shape a delta
river influence
wave influence
tide influence
Which one of the 3 external forcing functions shaping a delta forms the most structured delta?
river influence
Which 1 of the 3 external forcing functions shaping a delta forms the least structured delta?
tide influence
What determines the final shape of the delta?
the balance of all three factors
What is the dominating external forcing function of the Mississippi river Delta and how has the delta built the coast line?
River dominated
switching delta lobes build coastline
estuaries
body of water surrounded partially by land where fresh and ocean water mix
What are the geologic classifications of estuaries?
Drowned River Mouth
Fjord
Bar-Built
Tectonic
Drowned river mouth estuary
river under rising sea level
ex
: Chesapeake Bay
Fjord Geological Estuary
glacially eroded, deep with sill at mouth
Bar-Built Estuary
former low stand of sea level
low angle coastlines
EX
: NC, Florida, Gulf Coast
Tectonic estuaries
active plate margins
ex
: San Francisco Bay
Chemical Characteristics of estuaries
amount of mixing between freshwater and salt water
The chemical characteristics of estuaries are determined by:
shape of estuary
volume of river flow at head
tidal range at the mouth
What are chemical categories of estuaries categorized by?
circulation patterns
What are the chemical categories of estuaries?
salt wedge
well-mixed
fjord
reverse
Which chemical category of estuaries is becoming more common?
reverse
Author
green29dive5
ID
43040
Card Set
O Lecture 10/13/10
Description
Coastal Features Continued
Updated
2010-10-18T17:09:21Z
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