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O Lecture 10/12/10

  1. When is the tidal range the greatest?
    New/full moon
  2. When is the tidal range the least?
    quarter moons
  3. What is it called when tidal range the greatest?
    Spring Tide
  4. What is it called when tidal range the least?
    Neap tide
  5. Why are there unequal tides?
    because of the angle between the Sun, Moon, and Earth
  6. What is another complicating factor of tides?
    eliptical path of earth
  7. What percent of people live within easy access of the coast?
    80 %
  8. What percent of the global population lives within 100 km of the coast
    40%
  9. coastlines
    • dynamic and interactive
    • change with time
    • product of their environment
  10. inputs
    depositional processes
  11. outputs
    erosional processes
  12. What causes depositional and erosional processes?
    • wind
    • waves
  13. Drivers
    • wave/wind conditions
    • slope and sources material
  14. beach
    entire active are of the coast that experiences changes due to breaking waves
  15. coast
    extends inland as far as coastal features can be found
  16. coastline - definition
    marks boundary between shore and the coast
  17. offshore
    deep enough waves don't hit bottom
  18. nearshore
    never exposed - not even at low tide
  19. foreshore
    intertidal or littoral zone
  20. backshore
    above high tide line - only covered in water in really big storms
  21. berm
    dry, gentle sloping region at the foot of coastal cliffs or dunes
  22. beach face
    wet, gentle sloping region from berm to shoreline
  23. composition of beaches
    • locally available material
    • could be coarse or fine
  24. Beach Material Charactersitics
    • slope of beach helps determine material of beach
    • eg: boulders from local cliff, significant biological material at tropical beaches
  25. beaches typically dominated by...
    either erosion or deposition
  26. erosional beach characteristics
    • well developed cliffs
    • Pacific
  27. depositional beach characteristics
    sand deposits, off shore barrier islands - Atlantic
  28. How can material on the beach move?
    perpendicular or parallel
  29. Perpendicular movement
    in or out
  30. Parallel movement
    upcoast or downcoast
  31. How is upcoast and downcoast determined?
    by the dominant flow in that region
  32. What are the two types of waves that perpendicular movement can have?
    • Swash
    • Backwash
  33. Swash
    moves up
  34. backwash
    net movement of water out - normally wave breaks on top of it
  35. In light wave activity in perpendicular movement which wave dominates?
    swash
  36. Where do sediments move in light wave activity and perpendicular movement?
    to the shore
  37. How does the beach look that is formed by light wave activity and perpendicular movement?
    wider beach
  38. What is a beach light wave activity with perpendicular movement called?
    fair weather beach/summertime beach
  39. What type of wave movement dominates on a heavy wave beach with perpendicular movement?
    backwash
  40. Where do sediments move in heavy wave activity and perpendicular movement?
    away from shore
  41. How does the beach look that is formed by heavy wave activity and perpendicular movement?
    • narrower beach
    • sand bars form
  42. What is a beach with heavy wave activity and perpendicular movement called?
    stormy weather/wintertime beach
Author
green29dive5
ID
43038
Card Set
O Lecture 10/12/10
Description
Recap Tides, Coastal Features
Updated

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