-
When working on a haircut, it is important to remember to keep your body weight:
centered and firm
-
The angle at which the fingers are held when cutting is the:
cutting line
-
in cutting the crown area is defined as the area between the apex and:
periatal ridge
-
The term used to describe the amount of movement in the hair strand is the:
wave pattern
-
Skip waves are two rows of ridge curls used to create a
strong wave pattern
-
A square paddle brush that has cushions of air in the head that collapse are called:
pneumatic
-
What type of hair should be braided slightly damp and coated with wax or pomade to make it more pliable?
straight and resistant
-
To avoid bulk, the amount of extension material used should be:
less than the size of the base
-
A board of upright nails through which extensions are blended, combed, and detangled is a(n):
hackle
-
what are the roller curls 3 parts
base, stem, and curl
-
base
panel of hair that the roller sits on
-
stem
the hair between the base and the curl
-
curl
hair wrapped around the roller
-
how is a c shape created
with 1 turn around the roller
-
how is a wave created
with 1 and 1/2 turn around the roller
-
how is a curl created
2 n 1/2 turns around the roller
-
the larger the roller the more _____________
volume
-
what are the 3 kinds of bases
-
on base roller
full volume roller sits on base
-
1/2 base
medium volume and roller sits 1/2 on base
-
off base
little to no volume and roller doesn't sit on base at all
-
What type of rollers are not used in a salon and why
velcro because they don't allow for proper disinfection
-
What are 3 other terms for back combing
teasing, ratting, adn matting
-
Whats another term for back brushing and what is it used for
ruffing, creates a small cushion or meshes 2 or more curls together
-
Hair wrapping
used to keep curly hair smooth and straight
-
When you wrap hair what dirction do you wrap it
clockwise
-
What is the process for hair wrapping
- product
- wrap outer perimeter
- clip hair
- continue wrapping
- protect wrapped hair
- dry hair
-
termerature control switch
produces a ssteady stream of air set at a certain temp
-
concentrator
directional feature to creat a steady stream of air
-
diffuser
attachement that blows softer air
-
what do bore bristles distribute
oil creating a shine
-
nylon bristles
stimulate circulation
-
what are the 2 methods to thermal waving
marcel waving and thermal curling
-
what are the 4 parts of irons
rod handle, shell handle, barrel, shell
-
on a flat iron what is the end near the stylist called
the inner edge
-
how do you test the temperature on an iron
with a piece of tissue paper or damp towel
-
what are teh 2 types of hair pressing
soft, medium, and hard
-
soft hair pressing
how much curl does it remove and how is it done?
removes 50-60% of curl, once on each side of strand
-
medium hair pressing
how much curl does it remove and how is it done
removes 60-70% of curl and same as a soft press but harder
-
hard hair pressing
how much curl does it remove and how
100% of curl removed and twice on each side
-
what is a double process with a hot iron
pass the hot iron thru the hair and then pass the comb
-
can you press chemically relaxed hair
no
-
what can the clients scalp be classified as
-
what are the 2 types of pressing combs
regular and electric
-
what are pressing combs made of
stainless steel or brass
-
what are pressing comb handles made of
wood
-
what does tempering allo
brass to hold heat evenly
-
how do you temper a brass iron
- heat comb until extreamly hot
- coat in petrolium
- let cool naturally
- rinse to remove oil
-
what are the 2 kinds of electric combs
- on/off swith
- temperature gauge
-
before pressing what is needed
oil or cream
-
What is a hard press also know as
double comb press
-
What is the first thing you do before you press hair
part in 4 section
-
what is natural styling
using no chemicals of dyes
-
what brush removes tangels
paddle brush
-
how should curly hair be braided
dry
-
what are the 2 types of braiding styles
visable and invisable
-
visable braiding
underhand
-
invisable braiding
inverted braid, over handed
-
what is a rope braid
2 strands twisted around each other
-
how long do cornrows last without extensions
several weeks
-
how long do cornrows last with extensions
2 months
-
what are locks also known as and what are they
dreadlocks
natural hair that is interwinded and messhed together
-
what the the 3 locking techniques
- comb
- palm roll
- braids or extensions
-
Amino Acids
building blocks of protein
-
what happens if peptide bonds are broken in hair
hair breaks
-
what do mettalic salts leave, where are they found
coating and found in home haircolor
-
how is hair elasticity classified
normal or low
-
how many steps is a permanate wave
2 steps
-
what is the most common perm rod and what do they look like
- concave rods
- small inside larger out
-
what rod is equal in diameter, creating a uniform curl
straight rods
-
what are the 3 end paper wrap techniques
- double flat wrap
- single flat wrap
- bookend wrap
-
what si a double flat wrap
2 end papers one on the top of strand and one on the bottom
-
what is a single flap wrap
one end paper on the top
-
what is a book end wrap
when the end paper is used like a book covering the back and front of the hair
-
what is the first thing you do for a perm
section hair into panels
-
What ar epers subsection called
base sections
-
what are the 2 ways to wrap a perm
-
what is a croquignol wrap
ends to scalp creating a tighter curl at the ends and a larger curl @ scalp
-
what is a spiral perm
produces a uniform curl
-
once the perming solution is in the cortex what happens
reduction starts by adding hydrogen
-
what is the reducing agent in perms
thio
-
what are 8 common perms
- alkaline waves
- acid waves
- true acid
- acid balanced
- exothermic
- endothermic
- ammonia free
- thio free
- low ph
-
what are alkaline waves also know as
what is their ph
how do they process
- cold waves
- 9.0-9.6
- without heat
-
whats another name for acid waves
high or low ph
what does repeat exposure cause
- glycryl monothioglycolate
- low
- allergies
-
whats true acid waves ph
heat or no heat
-
whats a face about acid balanced waves
what the ph
heat or no heat
- they are not a true acid balanced
- 7.8-8.2
- room temp
-
exothermic perms
produce heat
-
endothermic perms
need dryer
-
ammonia free
2 facts
contain
- little odor
- equally as damaging
- methanol and propanal
-
what does thio free perms contain and what do they replace
cystemine and mercaptamine replace ATG
-
what do low ph wave use instead of ATG and whats another name for them
- sulfites, sulfates, and bisulfites
- body waves
-
What should a proper perm break
50% of disulfide bonds
-
-
Basic Wrap
straight set wrap with horizontal base sections
-
curvature wrap
follow the curve of the head and uses pie shapped sections
-
weave technique
weaves the base sections
-
What are the 2 types of relaxers
thio and hydroxide
-
Where are the thinnest and weekest strands of hair found in curly hair
in the twists
-
What is thio relaxers ph and what amount of ATG does it contain
- higher than 10
- more ATG than perms
-
What is the active ingrediant in hydroxide relaxers
hydroxide ions
-
what are 4 hydroxide relaxers
- sodium
- potassium
- lithium
- guanidine
-
what are hydroxide relaxers ph and what must they do
- over 13
- and must swell the hair to 2x the original diameter
-
will a perm curl the hair with a hydroxide relaxer
no
-
what do you use to neutralize a hydroxide relaxer
an acid balanced shampoo
-
what are metal hydroxide relaxers
ionic compounds formed by metal sodium, potassium, and lithium
-
how many components do metal hydroxide relaxers have
1 so there is no mixing
-
what are sodium hydroxide relaxers commonly called
lye relaxers
-
guanidine hydroxide relaxers are know as
they have _____ components
alkaline or acid
- no lye
- 2, so must be mixed
- more alkaline than hydroxide relaxers
-
do low ph relaxers work on extremly curly hair
no
-
what relaxers do not require a base cream
no base relaxers
-
what are relaxer strengths
mild, regular, super
-
when do you use mild relaxers
fine, colored, damamged hair
-
when do you use regular relaxers
normal with medium curl
-
when do you use super strength relaxers
very coarse, extreamly curly
-
where do you apply a virgin color application
1/4-1/2" away from the scalp, include the entire strand
-
contributing pigemtn
undertones
-
level
describes the lightness or darkeness of a color
-
tone
hue of color/balance of color
-
what are the 3 color tones
warm, cool, neutural
-
what are the primary color
red, yellow, blue
-
what are the secondary colors
-
what is included in permanate hair color
- developer
- oxidizing agent
- alkalizing ingredient
-
What are temporary shampoos and how long do they last
sprays, mousses
comes out after one shampoo
-
how long does semi-permenate colors last
several shampoos (4-6wks)
-
what are demi permanate hair colors and when are they used
- no lift deposit only hair colors
- used after permanate colors
-
whats permanate color
lifts and deposits color
-
what are analine derivitives
dye precursors
-
what are developers and whats the ph
- oxidixing agents or catalysts
- 2.5-4.5
-
what comes first when mixing developer or color
developer
-
what is considered single process
virgin, retouch
-
what a glaze
non ammonia color that adds shine
-
what are the 3 forms of lightener
oil, cream, powder
-
which forms of lightener are considered on scalp
oil and cream
-
which lightener is considered off scalp
powder
-
how many levels of lift does oil lightener usually give
what other hair is it used for
- 1-2 levels
- lightens dark facial or body hair
-
what is cream lightener good for
highlift
-
activators
powder oxidizer for off scalp lightening
-
how many activators can you use on scalp
how many activators can you use off scalp
-
when are toners used
on pre-lightened hair
-
fillers
equalize porosity
-
what are the 2 types of fillers
color fillers, conditioner fillers
-
what % is heredity when it comes to skin aging
15%
-
what has the greatest inpact on aging
the suns rays
-
what % of aging is sun reponsible for
80-85%
-
What are the 2 suns rays
UVA and UVB
-
-
what are UVB rays
burning or tanning
-
what vitamin does UVB rays produce
D
-
what outside factors can affect skin
pollutants
-
teleglectasis
dialated capillaries
-
lesions
marks on the skin
-
what are the 3 types of lesions
primary, secondary, and teritary
-
what are the 2 lesions that cosmetologists have to be concerened with
primary and secondary
-
what are primary lesions
- Bulla
- vesicle
- macull
- papule
- tubercle
- pustule
- ulcer
- tumor
- wheal
-
Whats a Bulla
Example
Size
- fluid between layer
- 2nd degree burn
- more then 0.5cm
-
Whats a vesicle
example
- fluid filled mass less than 0.5cm under skin layer
- chicken pox
-
whats a macule
example
- change in skin color less than 1cm
- freckle
-
whats a papule
example
- solid elivated lesion less than 0.5cm
- wart
-
whats a tubercle
similar to a papule but extends into the dermis 0.5-2cm
-
whats a pustule
example
- vesicle or bulla filled with pus usully less than 0.5cm
- acne
-
what is an ulcer
a depression lesion of epidermis
-
what is a tumor
same as a nodule only greater than 2cm
-
what is a wheal
example
- localized edema in epidermis
- insect bite
-
what are the 8 sebaceous gland disorders
- comodo
- milia
- acne
- seborrheic dermatitis
- asteatosis
- rosacea
- steatoma
-
comodo
hair follicles filled with keratin and sebum
-
milia
benign, kerating filled cysts that are under the epidermis not visable
-
acne
skin disorder caused by inflammation of the sebaceous glands and bacteria
-
propionibacterium
bacteria filled acne
-
whats the name for acne or common pimples
acne vulgaris
-
seborrheic dermatitis
skin condition caused by inflammed sebaceous glands
-
asteatosis
dry scally skin caused by absence of sebaceous oil, old age, dry skin
-
-
steatoma
what is this disorder sometimes called
sebaceous cysts or fatty tumor filled with sebum
wen
-
What are the 4 disorders of the sudoriferous glands
- anhidrosis
- bromhidrosis
- hyperhidrosis
- milana rubia
-
anhidrosis
lack of presperation
-
bromhidrosis
foul spelling presperation
-
hyperhidrosis
over prespiering
-
milana rubia
prickly heat
-
what are the 4 inflammation of the skin
- dermatitis
- eczema
- herpes
- psoriasis
-
dermatitis
lesions in various sizes
-
exzema
painful itching dry and mois leasions, not contageous
-
herpes
fever blister of cold store contageous
-
psoriasis
- red patches caused by skin cels turning faster than normal
- not contageous
-
albanism
congenital leukoderma, no melanin
-
chloasm
liver spots, caused by cummulative sun exposure
-
-
leukoderma
light abnormal patches
-
-
stain
abnormal brown or wine colored circular shape
-
vitiligo
milky white spots of the skin
-
hypertrophies of the skin
abnormal growth
-
keratoma
callus, caused by pressure
-
-
-
skin tag
small brown outgrowing of skin
-
-
what are the 3 types of skin cancer
- basal cell
- squamous
- malignant
-
basal cell carcinoma
- most common least sever
- light or peary nodules
-
squamous cell
scaley red papules of nodules
-
malignant melanoma
Most serious, black or dark brown patches on the skin
-
what is the most important dermatitis in the salon
dermatitis venenata
-
what can over exposure to products cause
allergic reactions
-
what substances temporarily damage the epidermis
irritating subastances
-
what are the 3 permanate hair removal methods
- electolysis
- prhotoepilation
- laser hair remover
-
electrolysis
needle shapped electrode inserted into the hair follicle to destroy growth
-
photoepilation
uses intense light to destroy growth and hair follicle
-
laser hair removal
laser is implused on the skin impairing growth
-
shaving steps
moist towel, apply cream, shave, lotion
-
electronic tweezers
transmits radio energy down the follicle which dehydrates the papillary which destroys it
-
depilatories
substance that uses caustic alkaline to swell the hair
-
epilators
wax, removes hair from follicle
-
how much time is usually needed inbetween waxing
4-6 weeks
-
how long does hair need to be inorder to wax
1/4"-1/2"
-
Masks that are applied quickly, form a seal, and dry to a rubberized texture are:
alginate masks
-
The difference between closed and open comedones is the size of the:
ostium
-
During the skin analysis procedure, the cleanser is applied to the face using:
upward circular movements
-
A deep rubbing massage movement where pressure is applied while moving over an underlying structure is:
friction movement
-
Skin Analysis
determins what kind of skin your client has
-
Accutane
oral medication that causes skin thinning
-
How is Skin Type dertermined and where does it come from
heredity by how oily or dry it is
-
what is the 1st thing you look for when doing a skin analysis
visable or absence of follicles
-
what is another term for dry skin
alipidic skin
-
dry flakey skin with fine lines and wrinkles is considered
dehydrated
-
what are open comodones
blackheads, combonation of sebum and dead cell build up stuck in the follicles
-
follicle opening is called
ostium
-
Acne
presents of pimples in oily areas
-
if acne is anarobic what does that mean
cannot survive in the presence of oxygen
-
acne papules
red pimples that do not have a pus head
-
putstules
imples with a pus head
-
hyperpigmentation
dark bloches of color caused by sun or hormones
-
what are telangiectasis and couperosis also known as
dialated caplillaries
-
what does aging skin need
exfoliating and hydration
-
What are the 2 types of cleansers
milk and foam
-
which skin type uses cleansing milk
sensitive skin and it's non foaming
-
what kind of cleanser is used for oily skin
cleansing foam
-
toners?
What does it do to ph
what kind of skin is it used on
how is it applied
freshners/astringents
lowers ph
oilier
cotton pads
-
what do exfoliants remove
dead skin cells
-
what are the 2 types of exfoliants
mechanical and chemical
-
mechanical exfoliation
bumps off dead cell build up
-
what are roll off masks also called
gommages
-
chemical exfoliants
loosen or dissolve dead cell build up
-
what are the 2 types of keratolytic enzymes
cream and powder
-
what do moisurizers do
help with apperance of fine lines and wrinkles
-
whats another word for serums
ampoules
-
what are the 4 types of masks
-
clay masks are used on?
what does it do
- oily and combo skin
- absorbs oil and cleanses
-
cream masks are used on
what effect does it have
-
gel masks used on
what does it do
- dry dehydrated skin
- plumps
-
what is aliginate masks made from
what form does it come in
what texture is it when it dries
- seaweed
- powder
- rubber texture
-
wfflaurage
light continuous stroking movement with fingers
-
petrissage
kneeding pinching movement
-
tapotement
percussion, slapping, tapping
-
motor point
point where pressure on skin will cause contraction
-
electrotherapy
use of electrical currents to treat the skin
-
what are the 2 types of electrical current
galvanic, tesla
-
microcurrent
galvanic current thats computerized
-
LED
light emitting dinode
-
Nail disorder
condition caused by injury or disease
-
bruised nails
blood clot forms under nail plate
-
ridges
vertical caused by uneven growth or age
-
egg shell
noticably think white nail plates caused by improper diet or hereditary
-
when filing eggshell nails what grit do you use 240 or higher
-
beau's lines
visable depressions running across the width of nail
-
Hangnail also called
define
- agnail
- living skin splits around the nail
-
leukonychia
caused by
white spots, caused by injury
-
melanonychia
darkening of finger nails or toes
-
-
onychorrhexis
split of brittle nails with ridges
-
-
nail pterygium
- skin stretched by nail plate
- caused by burns
-
pseudomonas aeruginosa
discolorations of the nail plate
-
The facial type that is wide at temples, narrow at the middle third of the face, and squared off at the jaw is the:
square
-
In ancient Rome, middle-class women colored their hair:
blond
-
To avoid damage to chemically treated hair, improve manageability, and make the hair smooth and shiny, use a(n
conditioning or moisturizing shampoo
-
The melanin granules found in fine hair texture are grouped:
tightly
-
A color that deepens and darkens skin tones to minimize a specific area is a:
contour color
-
Machine-made wigs are referred to as:
capless wigs
-
Depending upon the use of the UV light bulb, the typical UV bulb should be changed:
2-3 times a year
-
The shape of the cells in the medulla layer of the hair is:
round
-
When placing multi-use nail forms over the free edge, take the precautions not to cut into the:
hyponichium
|
|