Chapter 21 Haircolor

  1. Activators
    AKA boosters, protinators, or accelerators; powdered persulfate salts added to haircolor to increase its lightening ability.
  2. Aniline Derivatives
    Contain small, uncolored dyes that combine with hydrogen peroxide to form larger, permanent dye molecules within the cortex.
  3. Baliage
    AKA free-form technique; painting a lightener (usually a powdered off-the-scalp lightener) directly onto clean, styled hair.
  4. Base Color
    Predominant tone of a color
  5. Cap Technique
    Lightening technique that involves pulling clean, dry strands of hair through a perforated cap with a thin plastic or metal hook, and then combing them to remove tangles.
  6. Color Fillers
    Equalize porosity and deposit color in one application to provide a uniform contributing pigment on prelightened hair.
  7. Complementary Colors
    A primary and secondary color positioned directly opposite each other on the color wheel.
  8. Conditioner Fillers
    Used to recondition damaged, overly porous hair and equalize porosity so that the hair accepts the color evenly from strand to strand and scalp to ends.
  9. Contributing Pigment
    AKA undertone; the varying degrees of warmth exposed during a permanent color or lightening process.
  10. Demipermanent Haircolor
    AKA no-lift deposit-only color; formulated to deposit but not lift natural hair color.
  11. Developers
    AKA oxidizing agents or catalysts; when mixed with an oxidation haircolor, supplies the necessary oxygen gas to develop color molecules and create a change in hair color.
  12. Double-Process Application
    AKA two-step coloring; a coloring technique requiring two separate procedures in which the hair is prelightened before the depositing color is applied to the hair.
  13. Fillers
    Used to equalize porosity.
  14. Foil Technique
    Highlighting technique that involves coloring selected strands of hair by slicing or weaving out sections, placing them on foil or plastic wrap, applying lightener or permanent haircolor, and then sealing them in the foil or plastic wrap.
  15. Glaze
    A nonammonia color that adds shine and tone to the hair.
  16. Hair Color
    The natural color of hair.
  17. Hair Lightening
    AKA bleaching or decolorizing; chemical process involving the diffusion of the natural hair color pigment or artificial haircolor from the hair.
  18. Haircolor
    Professional, salon industry term referring to artificial haircolor products and services.
  19. Haircolor Glaze
    Common way to describe a haircolor service that adds shine and color to the hair.
  20. Highlighting
    Coloring some of the hair strands lighter than the natural color to add a variety of lighter shades and the illusion of depth.
  21. Highlighting Shampoo
    Colors prepared by combining permanent haircolor, hydrogen peroxide, and shampoo.
  22. Hydrogen Peroxide Developer
    Oxidizing agent that, when mixed with an oxidation haircolor, supplies the necessary oxygen gas to develop the color molecules and create a change in natural hair color.
  23. Intensity
    The strength of a color.
  24. Law of Color
    System for understanding color relationships.
  25. Level
    The unit of measurement used to identify the lightness or darkness of a hair color.
  26. level System
    System that colorists use to determine the lightness or darkness of a hair color.
  27. Lighteners
    Chemical compounds that lighten hair by dispersing, dissolving, and decolorizing the natural hair pigment.
  28. Line of Demarcation
    Visible line separating colored hair from new growth.
  29. Metallic Haircolors
    AKA gradual haircolors; haircolors containing metal salts that change hair color gradually by progressive buildup and exposure to air creating a dull, metallic appearence.
  30. mixed melanin
    Combination of natural hair color that contains both pheomelanin and eumelanin.
  31. natural haircolors
    AKA vegetable haircolors; such as henna, obtained from the leaves or bark of plants.
  32. new growth
    Part of the hair shaft between the scalp and the hair that has been previously colored.
  33. off-the-scalp lighteners
    AKA quick lighteners; powdered lighteners that cannot be used directly on the scalp.
  34. on-the-scalp lighteners
    Lighteners that can be used directly on the scalp by mixing the lightener with activators.
  35. patch test
    AKA predisposition test; test required by the federal food, drug, and cosmetic act for identifying a possible allergy in a client.
  36. permanent haircolors
    Lighten and deposit color at the same time and in a single process because they are more alkaline that no-lift deposit-only colors and are usually mixed with a higher-volume developer.
  37. prelightening
    First step of double-process haircoloring, used to lift or lighten the natural pigment before the application of toner.
  38. presoftening
    Process of treating gray or very resistant hair to allow for better penetration of color.
  39. primary colors
    Pure or fundamental colors (red, yellow, and blue) that cannot be created by combining other colors.
  40. resistant
    Hair type that is difficult for moisture or chemicals to penetrate, and thus requires a longer processing time.
  41. reverse highlighting
    AKA lowlighting; technique of coloring strands of hair darker than the natural color.
  42. secondary color
    color obtained by mixing equal parts of two primary colors.
  43. semipermanent haircolor
    No-lift deposit-only nonoxidation haircolor that is not mixed with peroxide and is formulated to last through several shampoos.
  44. single-process haircoloring
    Process that lightens and deposits color in the hair in a single application.
  45. slicing
    Coloring technique that involves taking a narrow, 1/8 in section of hair by making a straight part at the scalp, positioning the hair over the foil, and applying lightener or color.
  46. soap cap
    Combination of equal parts of a prepared permanent color mixture and shampoo used the last five minutes and worked through the hair to refresh the ends.
  47. special effects haircoloring
    Any technique that involves partial lightening or coloring.
  48. Strand Test
    Determines how the hair will react to the color formula and how long the formula should be left on the hair.
  49. Temporary Haircolor
    Nonpermanent color whose large pigment molecules prevent penetration of the cuticle layer, allowing only a coating action that may be removed by shampooing.
  50. tertiary color
    Intermediate color achieved by mixing a secondary color and its neighboring primary color on the color wheel in equal amounts.
  51. tone
    AKA hue; the balance of color.
  52. toners
    Semipermanent, demipermanent, and permanent haircolor products that are used primarily on prelightened hair to achieve pale and delicate colors.
  53. virgin application
    First time hair is colored.
  54. volume
    Measures the concentration and strength of hydrogen peroxide.
  55. weaving
    Coloring technique in which selected strands are picked up from a narrow section of hair with a zigzag motion of the comb, and lightener or color is applied only to these strands.
Card Set
Chapter 21 Haircolor
Milady ch 21 haircolor