EOS110 Mid-Final

• Crest- High point
• Trought- low point
• wave length L distance between crests
• frequency f number of crest per second
• Period T time between crests
• wave height h vertical distance from trough to crest
• speed C horizontal rate of travel 

•                  
• f  frequency
• L lenght
• T period
• C speed

the water in a surface wave doesnt move, rather the wave crest and trough pass through

if the wave is going to the right the orbital motion is clockwise. 

These orbital motions are as deep as half the wave lenght

The wave begins to stand and break when the orbitals feel the bottom

free wave - opperates independent of its driving force i.e. storm swell or tsunamii keeps going after the force disipated

Forced - will only contiue as long as the drving mechinism pertains. i.e. tidal wave is force dependent on gravity

Deep water wave the depth of the water is greater then 1/2 the wavelengh

for this reason tides are shallow water waves as the wavelengh can be up to 1/2 the diameter of earth

either surface tension and or gravity and in large scale coriolis

• surface tension stops small capilary waves
• gravity is the restoring force of most other waves
• coriolis effect and gravity aare the restoring force of large waves like tides.

• 1. wave feels the bottom depth=1/2L
• 2. wave stands as the energy is compresed into smaller area (due to shallow bottom)
• 3. the bottom of wave slows while top continues at spped (same principal as refraction)
• 4. wave aproaches the critical ratio of 1:7 height:lengh

Gravity from the sun and moon tends to pull water towards thems

centrifugal force tends to pull water away

because the tidal day is 24 hours and 50 minutes due to the rotation of earth and moon

not the same height because the moon/sun not always in the same place and due to their relitive location paired with local geography tidal waves may be restricted

• Diurnal - 1 high and one low
• semi-diurnal - two highs and two lows of same size
• mixed - two highs and two lows of differing size

• a no-tide point in the center of ocean basin.
• as a tidal wave moves north
• it trends to the right due to coreolis, 
• it is bounded to the right by the continent 
• results in counter clockwise rotation around the amphridonic point

spring tides - when moon and sun are in-line results in greater high/low tides

neap tides - moon and sun at right angles

• 1. tides are greates at the boundries of the largest bodys of water.
• 2. in a narrower bay there is no amphridonic point for it to rotate around so it all comes in then out. no circulation 
• *3 in some locations the water in the bay may resonate or sieche at the same frequency as the tide creating an extremly large tide

in line turbines in deep water

barrage in bays

• eustatic means world wide
• it rises due to-

• warming= more precipitation
• melting= land ice melting into sea water
• *note that ice berg melting doesnt effect this as the iceberg is already dispacing its amount of water

errosional marked by tectonic uplift, storm activity, high wave energy volcanism

passive marked by low energy, tectonicly passive areas lots of sandy features

**typically the west coast is a more errosional active coast then the east

tide dominated tend to have many chanels

river dominated is one main channel with more deposition in a fan like shape.

the pressure systems near the equator change up, (typically low pressure in the east) spreads out along equator, disrupts the northeasterly trade winds which create the equatorial upwellings