Softlines final

  1. 100 class stitch
    Single Thread Chainstitch
  2. 200 Class Stitch
    Hand stitches
  3. 300 class stitch
    Lockstitch - bobbin thread-most common
  4. 400 class stitch
    multithread chainstitch
  5. 500 class stitch
    overedge stitches, serging
  6. 600 class stitches
    coverstitch (sweatshirts)
  7. 100
    inexpensive, ravels easy, (sew on buttonsand make buttonholes--Blindstitch-hems)
  8. 300
    straight stitch looks the same on top and bottom, uniform, comfort, durability, slow-production,
  9. 400
    elastic, good for strech and stress, hem t-shirts, make belt loops
  10. 500
    Serging, saftey stitch
  11. 600
    coverstitch, sweatshirts
  12. Which stitch is most affectred by unbalabced stitch tension
  13. 6-10 Stitches per Inch
    Heavyweight fabrics
  14. 12-14 SPI
    Medium weight fabrics
  15. 15-18 Lightweight fabrics
  16. advantages of short stitches
    • withstand stress better than long stitches
    • make smaller rupture in row
    • less apt to make seam grin/tighter seam
  17. Needle Thread
    enters fabric from above
  18. Bobbin Thread
    Enters fabric from underneath for lockstitches
  19. Looper Thread
    Under threads for chainstitches
  20. Blind hem stitch
    joins layers of fabric with out the needle thread fully penetrating the top layer
  21. Balanced Tention
    Equal tention on needle, bobin and/or looper thread
  22. Top stitching
    Use of stitches for decorative purposes (
  23. Needle cutting
    When needle cuts or severs the yarns of the fabric rather than slipping between the yarns. (to large of a needle, blunt or damaged needle)
  24. Needle Heating
    When sewing friction heats the needle (fast sewing speeds)
  25. Needle chewing
    Jagged, enlarged needle holes in the fabric
  26. Back tacking
    Restitching at the begining and end og the row of stitches
  27. Latch tacking
    Draws the excess thread chainat the beginning of each row of stitches into the stitches to secure them.
  28. Name the for seam classes
    • Superimposed seams (ss)
    • Lapped Seams (LS)
    • Bound Seams (BS)
    • Flat Seams (FS)
  29. Superimposed seams:
    • Plain Seam
    • Enclosed seams
    • French seams
  30. Lapped Seams
    • Flat-Felled Seams
    • Mock Flat-Felled
    • Tuck and slot Seams
    • Welt Seam
  31. Bound Seams
    Bindings, Bias Tape,
  32. Flat seams
  33. Causes of Seam Pucker
    • Certian stitches - lockstitch
    • Differential shrinkages
    • Unbalanced thread tention
    • Too fast sewing speed
  34. Causes of seam slippage -- seams remain stable, fabric pulls away
    Thread, stitch or seam type is stronger or more stable than the fabric
  35. raw edge
    a hole in the seam casued by not stitching both seam allowances deeply enough
  36. seam line
    the stitched line of a seam
  37. Broken seam (stitches)
    Occurs when the stitches break and the seam splits apart or bursts
  38. Seam grin
    Occurs when the seam line spreads open exposing the stitches
  39. Butterflied/busting
    Plain seam allowances that are pressed open. (reduces bulk)
  40. bindings (bound seams)
    Produces a neat edge finish, prevents raveling of edges, provides comfort
  41. Three types of Plackets
    • Horizontal Placket
    • Continuous Bound placket
    • Tailored Placket (shirt sleeve placket)
  42. Bands
    Peices of fabric seamed usually to the straight raw edges of garments to extend the finish edge
  43. Hong Kong binding
    A very narrow bias strip of fabric used to decoratively bind seam/hem allowances inside the garments (high prices couture garments)
  44. Gauntlet Button
    Extra button and buttonhole paced on the tailored placket
  45. Facings
    Any piece of fabric used to finish raw edges of the garment - the facing is turned into the garment usually 2-3 inches
  46. Shirttail hem
    a narrow hem that is folded under twice and topstitched in place
  47. Taped Seams
    Created by sewing seams with narrow strips of twill tape or fabric
  48. Mitering
    Seaming or folding a corner diagonally for sharper, less bulky corners
  49. Stay
    any stable, narrow, non-bulky tape, ribbon, fabric strip, or other device used to tabilize a seam
Card Set
Softlines final
final 2010