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100 class stitch
Single Thread Chainstitch
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200 Class Stitch
Hand stitches
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300 class stitch
Lockstitch - bobbin thread-most common
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400 class stitch
multithread chainstitch
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500 class stitch
overedge stitches, serging
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600 class stitches
coverstitch (sweatshirts)
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100
inexpensive, ravels easy, (sew on buttonsand make buttonholes--Blindstitch-hems)
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300
straight stitch looks the same on top and bottom, uniform, comfort, durability, slow-production,
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400
elastic, good for strech and stress, hem t-shirts, make belt loops
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500
Serging, saftey stitch
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600
coverstitch, sweatshirts
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Which stitch is most affectred by unbalabced stitch tension
lockstitches
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6-10 Stitches per Inch
Heavyweight fabrics
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12-14 SPI
Medium weight fabrics
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15-18 Lightweight fabrics
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advantages of short stitches
- withstand stress better than long stitches
- make smaller rupture in row
- less apt to make seam grin/tighter seam
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Needle Thread
enters fabric from above
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Bobbin Thread
Enters fabric from underneath for lockstitches
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Looper Thread
Under threads for chainstitches
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Blind hem stitch
joins layers of fabric with out the needle thread fully penetrating the top layer
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Balanced Tention
Equal tention on needle, bobin and/or looper thread
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Top stitching
Use of stitches for decorative purposes (
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Needle cutting
When needle cuts or severs the yarns of the fabric rather than slipping between the yarns. (to large of a needle, blunt or damaged needle)
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Needle Heating
When sewing friction heats the needle (fast sewing speeds)
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Needle chewing
Jagged, enlarged needle holes in the fabric
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Back tacking
Restitching at the begining and end og the row of stitches
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Latch tacking
Draws the excess thread chainat the beginning of each row of stitches into the stitches to secure them.
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Name the for seam classes
- Superimposed seams (ss)
- Lapped Seams (LS)
- Bound Seams (BS)
- Flat Seams (FS)
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Superimposed seams:
- Plain Seam
- Enclosed seams
- French seams
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Lapped Seams
- Flat-Felled Seams
- Mock Flat-Felled
- Tuck and slot Seams
- Welt Seam
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Bound Seams
Bindings, Bias Tape,
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Causes of Seam Pucker
- Certian stitches - lockstitch
- Differential shrinkages
- Unbalanced thread tention
- Too fast sewing speed
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Causes of seam slippage -- seams remain stable, fabric pulls away
Thread, stitch or seam type is stronger or more stable than the fabric
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raw edge
a hole in the seam casued by not stitching both seam allowances deeply enough
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seam line
the stitched line of a seam
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Broken seam (stitches)
Occurs when the stitches break and the seam splits apart or bursts
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Seam grin
Occurs when the seam line spreads open exposing the stitches
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Butterflied/busting
Plain seam allowances that are pressed open. (reduces bulk)
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bindings (bound seams)
Produces a neat edge finish, prevents raveling of edges, provides comfort
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Three types of Plackets
- Horizontal Placket
- Continuous Bound placket
- Tailored Placket (shirt sleeve placket)
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Bands
Peices of fabric seamed usually to the straight raw edges of garments to extend the finish edge
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Hong Kong binding
A very narrow bias strip of fabric used to decoratively bind seam/hem allowances inside the garments (high prices couture garments)
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Gauntlet Button
Extra button and buttonhole paced on the tailored placket
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Facings
Any piece of fabric used to finish raw edges of the garment - the facing is turned into the garment usually 2-3 inches
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Shirttail hem
a narrow hem that is folded under twice and topstitched in place
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Taped Seams
Created by sewing seams with narrow strips of twill tape or fabric
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Mitering
Seaming or folding a corner diagonally for sharper, less bulky corners
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Stay
any stable, narrow, non-bulky tape, ribbon, fabric strip, or other device used to tabilize a seam
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