1. First assessment of quality
    • Prior to purchase
    • Customer focus on aesthetics (style, color, fit, fabric, trim, construction)
  2. Second assessment of quality
    • After purchase:
    • -Durability
    • -Comfort
    • -Care
    • -Appearance retention
  3. Product developer's role in quality
    • Must interpret the quality expectations of the customer into concepts understood by all members of the management team (design, production, factory managers)
    • Must consider quality at the START of product development
  4. Customer expectations are based on...
    • Price
    • Brand image
    • Competitors' quality
  5. Standards
    • The process of establishing rules for corporate quality expections
    • Provide a means to evaluate and compary similar products (ex: fewer stitches per inch in a cheaper shirt)
    • Can be industry-based or voluntary
  6. Industry standards
    • When the industry adopts a particular standard
    • Ex: 1/4" seam allowance on a collar
  7. Voluntary standards
    • When a need for a standard exists but not all companies follow that standard
    • Ex: Fusible rather than sewn-in cuffs on a shirt
  8. Mandatory standards
    • Federally regulated
    • Includes flammability laws, draw-cords, small trims that could detach
    • Important in childrens wear
  9. Thread count
    Counting the number of threads contained in one square inch of fabric
  10. Methods of judging quality
    • Thread count
    • Where the fiber is grown (ex: Egyptian cotton)
    • Where and how it has been woven (ex: Italian weave)
  11. Determinants of quality in product development
    • Raw materials
    • Designs
    • Fit
    • Construction
    • Details
    • Finishing
  12. Quality & raw materials
    • Fiber
    • Size of yarn
    • Fabric count
    • Fabric gauge
    • Weight
    • Finished width
    • End use of fabric
    • Finishes that are used and their effectiveness
    • Tensile, tear, and bursting strengths
  13. Quality & pattern/fit
    • Fit sessions
    • End use of garment
    • Fit adjustments need to be communicated (via spec sheet)
  14. Quality procedures after line development
    • Inspection of raw materials (color variances, soiling, holes)
    • Proper marking, spreading, cutting
    • Sewing and assembly both before and after completion
    • Finishing (correct labels, loose threads, packaging)
  15. Certificate of Inspection
    Signed by an approved independent QC inspector based on raw materials at source, assembly, and finished goods
  16. Defects
    • Critical defect: potentially harmful
    • Major defect: detracts from performance or aesthetic
    • Minor defect
  17. How does a merchandiser decide whether a garment should be accepted or rejected?
    Based on a pre-determined quality level
  18. Fabric-related performance issues
    • Tensile strength: resistance to pulling/tearing
    • Shrinkage: more difficult to control for knits
    • Shading/dye lots: variances between different dye lots
    • Colorfastness: change in color over a garment's lifetime
    • Bleeding: staining of one color of fabric into another
    • Crocking: transference of fabric color to another surface when rubbed
    • Pilling
    • Torque: twisting of seams
    • Differential shrinkage: uneven shrinkage on a garment
  19. Garment construction-related issues
    • Seam strength
    • Wrong stitch type
    • Tape seam sealing
    • Wrinkle/crease resistance
    • Soil/stain resistance
    • Waterproof/breathable
  20. Specification sheet
    • Created by PD team to communicate a garment's specs both within and outside of the company
    • Important that it is precise and easy to read
    • Shows a pattern maker how the prototype sample should look
  21. Size specifications
    • Garments can be difficult to measure - not transparant between each company/factory
    • Size specs must indicate precise measurements plus the method of measuring
  22. Size spec terminology
    • "On the flat"
    • Size range (list of sizees for a specific style)
    • Sample size
    • Size scale
    • Grading
    • Tolerance
    • Point of measurement (POM)
  23. PRE-PROTOTYPE: What does a spec sheet include?
    • Style and/or design number
    • Sketch
    • Swatches of fabric
    • Usage and cost of fabric, trim, etc.
    • Identification of pattern pieces
    • Special sewing instructions
    • Notation regarding placement parts
  24. AFTER PROTOTYPE: What does a spec sheet include?
    • Style identification
    • Sketch or photo
    • Sizes and tolerances
    • Color-ways
    • Usage of fabric, trim findings
    • Swatch of fabric, samples of trim and findings
    • Construction details (seam allowances, stitches per in, etc)
    • Labeling info and placement
    • Graphic placement and details
  25. Sales samples
    • Should be made using exact fabric/colors/details
    • Only one size
    • Size spec should be checked again
    • Fit session
    • Tweak where needed
  26. Production
    • Quality control takes place throughout production
    • Factory visits
    • Production lots
    • QC team makes spot checks on production
Card Set
FIT product development final PART 2