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First assessment of quality
- Prior to purchase
- Customer focus on aesthetics (style, color, fit, fabric, trim, construction)
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Second assessment of quality
- After purchase:
- -Durability
- -Comfort
- -Care
- -Appearance retention
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Product developer's role in quality
- Must interpret the quality expectations of the customer into concepts understood by all members of the management team (design, production, factory managers)
- Must consider quality at the START of product development
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Customer expectations are based on...
- Price
- Brand image
- Competitors' quality
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Standards
- The process of establishing rules for corporate quality expections
- Provide a means to evaluate and compary similar products (ex: fewer stitches per inch in a cheaper shirt)
- Can be industry-based or voluntary
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Industry standards
- When the industry adopts a particular standard
- Ex: 1/4" seam allowance on a collar
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Voluntary standards
- When a need for a standard exists but not all companies follow that standard
- Ex: Fusible rather than sewn-in cuffs on a shirt
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Mandatory standards
- Federally regulated
- Includes flammability laws, draw-cords, small trims that could detach
- Important in childrens wear
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Thread count
Counting the number of threads contained in one square inch of fabric
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Methods of judging quality
- Thread count
- Where the fiber is grown (ex: Egyptian cotton)
- Where and how it has been woven (ex: Italian weave)
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Determinants of quality in product development
- Raw materials
- Designs
- Fit
- Construction
- Details
- Finishing
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Quality & raw materials
- Fiber
- Size of yarn
- Fabric count
- Fabric gauge
- Weight
- Finished width
- End use of fabric
- Finishes that are used and their effectiveness
- Tensile, tear, and bursting strengths
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Quality & pattern/fit
- Fit sessions
- End use of garment
- Fit adjustments need to be communicated (via spec sheet)
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Quality procedures after line development
- Inspection of raw materials (color variances, soiling, holes)
- Proper marking, spreading, cutting
- Sewing and assembly both before and after completion
- Finishing (correct labels, loose threads, packaging)
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Certificate of Inspection
Signed by an approved independent QC inspector based on raw materials at source, assembly, and finished goods
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Defects
- Critical defect: potentially harmful
- Major defect: detracts from performance or aesthetic
- Minor defect
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How does a merchandiser decide whether a garment should be accepted or rejected?
Based on a pre-determined quality level
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Fabric-related performance issues
- Tensile strength: resistance to pulling/tearing
- Shrinkage: more difficult to control for knits
- Shading/dye lots: variances between different dye lots
- Colorfastness: change in color over a garment's lifetime
- Bleeding: staining of one color of fabric into another
- Crocking: transference of fabric color to another surface when rubbed
- Pilling
- Torque: twisting of seams
- Differential shrinkage: uneven shrinkage on a garment
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Garment construction-related issues
- Seam strength
- Wrong stitch type
- Tape seam sealing
- Wrinkle/crease resistance
- Soil/stain resistance
- Waterproof/breathable
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Specification sheet
- Created by PD team to communicate a garment's specs both within and outside of the company
- Important that it is precise and easy to read
- Shows a pattern maker how the prototype sample should look
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Size specifications
- Garments can be difficult to measure - not transparant between each company/factory
- Size specs must indicate precise measurements plus the method of measuring
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Size spec terminology
- "On the flat"
- Size range (list of sizees for a specific style)
- Sample size
- Size scale
- Grading
- Tolerance
- Point of measurement (POM)
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PRE-PROTOTYPE: What does a spec sheet include?
- Style and/or design number
- Sketch
- Swatches of fabric
- Usage and cost of fabric, trim, etc.
- Identification of pattern pieces
- Special sewing instructions
- Notation regarding placement parts
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AFTER PROTOTYPE: What does a spec sheet include?
- Style identification
- Sketch or photo
- Sizes and tolerances
- Color-ways
- Usage of fabric, trim findings
- Swatch of fabric, samples of trim and findings
- Construction details (seam allowances, stitches per in, etc)
- Labeling info and placement
- Graphic placement and details
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Sales samples
- Should be made using exact fabric/colors/details
- Only one size
- Size spec should be checked again
- Fit session
- Tweak where needed
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Production
- Quality control takes place throughout production
- Factory visits
- Production lots
- QC team makes spot checks on production
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