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What two things determine a final color result?
natural pigment + artifical pigment
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What is a chemical compound or mixture of compounds that consist of many molecules in a long chain-like structure?
Polymers
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What two categories of color fall into nonoxidative color?
Temporary & Semi-Permanent
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How long will a temporary color last?
shampoo to shampoo
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Does temporary color create a chemical or physical change to the hair?
physical
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How does a temporary color change the color of the hair?
they contain large color molescules that coat only the surface of the cuticle.
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Why do temporary colors not require a patch test?
because they do NOT contain aniline derivative substances
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Can semi-permanent hair color lighten hair?
no, they do not use chemicals to alter the hair.
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Why are retouches not required with semi-permanent hair color?
because the color will fade, leaving no line of demarcation.
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When do semi-permanent hair colors require a patch test?
if it contains an aniline-derivative tint.
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When do semi-permanent hair colors have the potential to alter the structure of the hair?
repeated application, especially on chemically treated hair.
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What categories of hair color are oxidative?
demi-permanent & permanent
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What is the difference between non-oxidative color and oxidative color?
- NonOxidative: no developer is needed, only a physical change to hair.
- Oxidative: developer is needed, both chemical and physical change to hair.
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What type of developer does demi-permanent color use?
low volume
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How long is a demi-permanent color expected to last?
4-6 weeks
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Permanent hair color is different than other hair color because it is capable of doing what two things in a single process?
lifting & depositing
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What is another term for the colorless molecules in hair color?
Para-dyes
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When do the colorless molecules become colored?
when mixed with hydrogen peroxide
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What allows for the lift/lightening of the hair's natural pigment in permanent color?
ammonia & hydrogen peroxide
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What are some products that can be used to remove unwanted permanent hair color?
- color removers
- decolorizer/color cleanser
- disolvants
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Is permanent color capable of darkening and toning existing color?
Yes
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If you are not able to achieve the desired amount of lift in one process, what may be required?
prelightening
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What are the three forms that hair color can come in and what are the pros of each?
- Liquid: good penetration
- Cream: conditioners & thickening agents
- Gel:
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What is typically light pastel colors used to tone prelightened hair by depositing color and neutralizing unwanted pigment that remains after prelightening?
Toner
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How should a toner be selected?
based on color theory
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When will a toner require a patch test?
always
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What are the two types of fillers and their purposes?
- Conditioning Filler: recondition damaged hair prior to a chemical service.
- Color Filler: used on damaged hair when there is a question as to whether or not the color will hold with such porous hair.
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Why should hair never be lightened to white?
it would cause extreme damage to the hair
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Why would applying a toner to over lightened hair cause the hair to look cool, ashy, gray or dull?
because most of the warm tones are missing
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How is timing for lightening determined?
time will vary with every client due to natural pigmentation of hair and resistance
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How many levels of decolorization are there?
9
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What is the most commonly used oxidizing agent in developers?
hydrogen peroxide
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What is the pH of hydrogen peroxide?
2.5-4.5
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What does hydrogen need to be mixed with to become active?
a developer
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Why shouldn't developers be mixed in a metal bowl and what type of bowls should developers be mixed in?
- metal bowl: may cause it to become weak
- Glass or plastic bowls are best.
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What is the most common vegetable dye and what colors does it product?
henna: reddish highlights in the hair
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WHy are metallic dyes known as progressive dyes?
because the hair turns darker with each application
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What is a compound dye?
combination of metallic and vegetable dyes
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Before performing a chemical service on hair dyed with vegetable, metallic, or compound dye, what is the best solution for removing the dye?
cut out dyed hair
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