TXA 325M

  1. Chanel

    • •Simple aesthetic but everything was considered
    • -Down to the pearl necklace

    •Innovative Textiles: unexpected

    •Costume Jewelry—good quality

    •Cardigan jacket

    •Little Black Dress


    • •Perfume
    • -Marketing name through licensing was a new idea

    •Everything thought out
  2. Madeleine Vionnet

    •“Invented” bias cut


    •Opposite of Chanel



    •Handkerchief Skirt

    •Career paralleled Chanel’s
  3. Mariano Fortuny

    •Patented silk pleating in 1909

    •A secret process still yet to be discovered

    • •Delphos Gown
    • -Like a Greek column

    •Painted velvet
  4. Jean Patou

    •Ended the flapper era

    •Like the flapper silhouette, but had a waistline (1920s)

    •Natural waist


    •Comfort and function

    •Athletic clothing
  5. Jeanne Paquin

    •Fashion House 1891


    • •Fashion Parades
    • -Took models to the streets and attracted crowds

    •Knew she had to fight for attention with a male-saturated market

    •More traditional aesthetic
  6. Madame Alix Gres




  7. Paul Poiret

    • •Worked for Worth & Doucet
    • -Typical ascendency of a designer when you worked as a designer’s apprentice before become your own


    •Lampshade silhouette

    •Harem Pant

    •Poor construction—in a time when that was most important

    •More known for illustrations (by Georges Lapape) of his work

    •Fashion was very “out there”

    •Nothing of his has survived because of poor quality

    •Great color sense and ability to mix patterns
  8. Jacques Doucet



    •Lingerie family

    •Brought lingerie aesthetic to his designs


    •Luxury above novelty
  9. Jeanne Lanvin

    • •Children as inspiration
    • -Started in childrenswear


    • •Silhouette competed with the flapper look
    • -Robe de Style
  10. Elsa Schiaparelli



    •Worked with Dali a lot

    •Dyed zippers

    •Many unexpected elements, but they always seemed to work

    •Never really crossed that line of being costumey or vulgar

  11. Cuirass bodice
    narrow silhouette with fullness below the hips and a semicircular frame supported the trailing skirts
  12. Tea Gown
    • gown worn without a
    • corset, loosely fitted, and softer in line than daytime or evening dresses;
    • worn at home with other women friends
  13. Princess Polonaise
    • when the outer
    • fabric of a princess-style dress (one piece from shoulder to hem with no
    • waistline seam) was looped up or draped over the hip
  14. Kick-up Sleeve
    • sleeve style with a
    • puff at the sleeve cap that was very pronounced; a forerunner of the extremely
    • full sleeves that characterized the 1890s
  15. Ulster
    • a long, belted coat
    • often made with a removable shoulder cape or hood
  16. Leg-of-Mutton Sleeve

    had a full puff to
    the elbow, then a fitted sleeve from elbow to wrist or a wide top that narrowed
    gradually to the wrist

    • had a full puff to
    • the elbow, then a fitted sleeve from elbow to wrist or a wide top that narrowed
    • gradually to the wrist
  17. Tailor-mades
    • matching jackets and skirts, worn with a
    • blouse; predominant fashion outside the home
  18. Norfolk Jacket
    a belted sport jacket (menswear)
  19. Homburg
    • a variant of the
    • fedora made popular by the Prince of Wales
  20. Deerstalker Cap
    • made famous through
    • the illustrations of Conan Doyle's Sherlock Holmes stories
  21. Kate Greenaway Styles
    • an Aesthetic
    • Movement illustrator of children's books who showed little girls in dresses
    • derived from Empire styles
  22. Little Lord Fauntleroy Suits
    • consisted of a
    • velvet tunic, ending slightly below the waist, tight knickerbockers, a wide
    • sash, and a wide, white lace collar
  23. Lingerie Dresses
    • popular white, frilly cotton or linen dresses
    • with decorations such as tucking, pleating, lace insertions, bands of applied
    • fabric, lace and embroidery; the fabric and decoration resembled women's
    • undergarments or lingerie of the period
  24. Bishop Sleeve
    • gathered into the armseye and full below the
    • elbow with fabric puffed or pouched at the wrist
  25. Pompadour
    • hair built high in
    • front and at the sides around the face
  26. Picture Hats
    • large-brimmed hats
    • decorated lavishly with artificial flowers, lace, buckles, feathers, and bird
    • wings
  27. Hobble Skirts
    extremely narrow at the ankles
  28. Peg-Top Skirts
    • fullness concentrated at the hip then
    • narrowing gradually to the ankles
  29. Minaret Tuni
    • a wide tunic, boned to hold out the skirt in a
    • full circle and worn over the narrowest of hobble skirts
  30. Cami-Knickers
    • a combination
    • garment that put together a camisole with a skirt that buttoned under the
    • crotch to form drawers
  31. Makintosh
    • name given to almost
    • any kind of rainwear
  32. Bustle Shapes
    1. Emphasis up top with a train; waterfall-like effect; elaborate trims and draping (1870-1878)

    2. Straight bodice, emphasis lowers to the back of the knees; sheath or cuirass bodice; polonaise neckline, heavy decorations like upholstery (1878-1883)

    3. Emphasis back up, but the line is straight down; rigid, shelf-like, rarely had a train (1883-1890)
  33. After the Bustle Period, in the Nineties
    Back fullness diminished, sleeves grew larger, skirts more circular, and an hour-glass shape silhouette came into fashion
  34. Aesthetic Movement

    Beauty over ethics

    Debate of function versus form

    Influenced by looking backwards

    • "Art for art's sake"
    • Jane Morris: the ideal aesthetic figure
  35. Aesthetic Dress
    Influenced by the Pre-Raphaelite paintings of Dante Gabriel Rossetti and Edward Burne Jones who idealized medieval life in imaginary ethereal scenes

    Men: velvet jackets, soft-collared shirts, long hair

    Women: no bustle, older sleeves, often Medieval and Renaissance, softer/disheveled hair
  36. La Belle Epoch
    • Luxurious period
    • "Beautiful Era" belonging to fashionable society
    • Seemed like an untroubled period of the privileged living a "fairytale"
    • Though created a rebellion of the elite
    • Prior to WWI

    • Pursuit of beauty,
    • entertainment, and romance conquered the lifestyle

    Beneath surface laid deep bitterness

    Increased European Population

    Growth of cities and urban life

    Faith in science; Charles Darwin
  37. Victorian Era

    Prosperity, Expansion, and Political Reform

    Upper Class definition changing

    Middle class developing

    Prudish/Opressive attitudes

    Bad working conditions/child labor

    Scientific Progress
  38. Edwardian Dress 1900-1908
    S-Shape emphasis

    Mono-breast padding

    Gibson Girl

    Lingerie Dress
  39. Edwardian Dress 1908-1914
    Hobble Skirt (Poiret)

    Empire waistline

    Narrow silhouette and tubular undergarments

    Delphos dresses (Fortuny)
  40. Edwardian Dress during WWI

    More practical clothing: shorter and wider skirts, less encumbering

    Sweaters (shakers), trenchcoats, wrist watches
  41. Charles Dana Gibson
    The "Gibson Girl" illustrator

    •Found Evelyn Nesbit comical

    •Drew her satirically

    First media icon

    The Eternal Question
Card Set
TXA 325M